European Easter

This was the first Easter I spent without family. I was in good company with my room mate Euleane, William and Lauren (two other French TAs) on a mini road trip to Poland, Germany and Czech Republic for 4 days. We took a highway and sort of made a circle that connected Linz, Vienna, Brno (CZ), Krakow (PL), Dresden (GER) and Prague (CZ).  The last four cities were the ones we spent a day+night in.

It was my first time visiting Poland. My mother’s relatives were from Krakow, so it was especially exciting and special for me to finally visit. I have heard from many people about how beautiful Krakow is, and it certainly was beautiful despite the cold and very, very windy weather, which is typical of Krakow.  Nevertheless, we bundled up and went on a walking tour in the freezing cold rain the first morning we woke up.  We got to see the main sites and neighborhoods and find our way around the city a bit.  There is also a large part of Krakow that includes a Jewish neighborhood that has been there since before the World War, and is still there with active Jews which was interesting.  The city of Krakow is also fought among the Polish people to be the “real capital” of Poland, and the water sewer plates that lay in the streets even say “capital city” on it, despite the fact that Warsaw is the official capital. Our Polish guide also told us that Polish complain a lot and can never agree on anything. Despite the fact that I’ve learned stereotypes don’t really exist, I think he might be right on this one since his description matched my mother perfectly.

The biggest surprise we came across while visiting Poland and Czech Republic were all the Easter markets.  The only thing that was different from the Christmas markets is that hand-painted Easter eggs were being sold instead of hand-painted Christmas tree ornaments.  There wasn’t an “Easter” drink (such as Glühwein for Christmas), but everything else was primarily the same.

But the thing I was MOST excited about during the trip was eating authentic Polish pierogies.  My mom makes them once in a blue moon and when she does, she makes them to last for days and days.  Pierogies are dumplings with a filling of pretty much anything and are popularly eaten in eastern European countries, particularly Poland and Russia.  For example, my mom’s side of the family uses ground beef, sauerkraut and bacon for the filling.  Other types include potato, cheese and even fruits such as strawberries or blueberries.  Well, let me tell you, I scouted both online and through word of mouth for the “best” pierogies in Krakow, and found the tiny little restaurant in a hidden corner that has pierogies that are (according to our Polish hostel receptionists) “better than our grandmothers… but you better hurry, they are always packed with people and close early.”  Upon hearing this, I grab Euleane, William and Lauren and RUN down the street with my phone's GPS leading me to find the little phenomenal hole in the wall place just in time before it closed.  We got there and there was a little window inside with a little kitchen and two young girls inside taking orders and baking.  The menu was pretty simple and basic, offering about 7 different fillings and 3 different dessert fillings, so the four of us each ordered different pierogies.  I got pork and onion filling, and we all tried each others and shared strawberry pierogies with a cream/cheese sauce over them as our dessert.  Best pierogies I’ve had in my life and I will make a point to recommend the place to anyone I know going to Krakow.  I know I’ll be back again.

We moved onto Dresden as the next stop, which I had been to last summer with my dad when auditioning for the music school there.  It was weird being there again in a different season without my dad but I was excited to be back because I knew how much I loved the city.  It’s super alternative with a layers centuries old dirt against the gothic architecture that adds to the dark glow the city vibrates.  If the graffitied buildings and old, gothic churches and historic center was power washed, it wouldn’t have any character or be half as interesting.  Everything is visually unique in Dresden, even the people.

I left Euleane, William and Lauren a day early and spent Easter day in Salzburg hiking with Hannes and his mother.  At the top of the mountain, we met some of his mother's hiking friends at a traditional Austrian family-run restaurant (as they all are in the mountains) and enjoyed some warm food, cold beer and good Austrian dialect conversation.  I contributed when I could, but it definitely can be difficult understanding and keeping up with dialects, as each state has their own.

All in all, I'd say it was a successful Easter week, even without the Peeps.  The chocolate Easter bunnies definitely sufficed.